HOW TO: Build a Double Toddler Bed with Railing

In this post you will find all of the materials, tools and instructions (including a cut list) needed to build a double bed for your toddler with a detachable railing.

Materials:
This project could be completed with wood from the lumber aisle at your local hardware store for about $80 plus a small $10 can of stain and a $10 can of clear finish, which would work out to $100 total!

All of the wood we used was kiln dried knotty pine. This wood is economical, light weight, and the grain/knots give it a nice rustic look when finished. It is more expensive, but it also will last longer! When you start out with construction grade lumber, the wood will have a higher moisture content. As the wood dries out it will shrink, bend, twist, cup and check. When this happen, gaps can appear and pieces can actually twist out of square. In the worst cases you may have pieces breaking apart. 

Here's a couple tips if you want to save some money and use the construction grade lumber:
1. Pick through the piles of wood to find the boards that are perfectly straight.
2. Try to pick from a pile that has been sitting for a while because the wood will have started to dry.
3. Pick wood from a hardware store that keeps everything indoors. 
4. When choosing the wood stay away from pieces with large knots as they are more likely to warp.
5. Check the grain at the end of the boards. If the growth rings almost make a full circle they will be very unstable and will bend, twist, and cup more as they dry.
6. Last tip, lay your wood out to dry for a few weeks in a dry place. Spread the boards out and wait!
* You may have pieces that are unusable once they have dried for a few weeks so buy some extra to begin with!

2" screws are what we used and coarse thread screws work best on soft wood.
 
Tools needed:

• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Mitre Saw (a skill saw will work with a framing square to make sure you make straight cut)
• Pocket hole guide- these are inexpensive and we use them all the time! A must have if you ask us. https://www.kregtool.com/store/c13/kreg-jigsreg/p114/kreg-jigreg-mini/# (you also need a basic clamp to go along with this)
• Drill
• Orbital sander
• Paint brush!

Cut list:
2- 2x10 @ 78" 
1- 2x10 @ 35"
2- 2x6 @ 42"
4- 1x8 @ 38"
1- 2x4 @ 38"
3- 2x4 @ 32"
2- 2x4 @ 75"
2- 2x4 @ 35"
3- 2x2 @ 17"
2- 2x2 @ 48"
9- 1x3 @ 35"
2- 2x2@ 21 3/4"

Instructions:

1. Cut down lumber to the dimensions and quantities above.

2. Drill pocket holes on each end of the following boards:
1- 2x10 @ 35"
2- 2x4 @ 35"
1- 2x4 @ 38"
4- 1x8 @ 38"

3. Assemble the box frame. Pieces you will need:
2- 2x10 @ 78"
1- 2x10 @ 35"
2- 2x4 @ 35"
2- 2x4 @ 75"
3- 2x4 @ 32"

Attach the 78" 2x10s on either side of the 35" 2x10. Use screws in the pocket holes that you drilled to make a nice tight joint. Line up the edges so they are all smooth. Make sure the pocket holes face the inside so that the outside stays nice and smooth. On the other end use the 35" 2x4s and attach them in the same way to the inside of the long 2x10s. Make one 2x4 flush with the top and one 2x4 flush with the bottom. Make sure everything is square as you go and make sure the frame sits flat on a level surface without wobbling. If it wobbles that means the wood is not straight or the boards may not be put together evenly.

Use the remaining 2x4s for this section to make the inner supports that we will use to attach our slats. this section should be built with the 75" 2x4s running long and all the 32" 2x4s will be in between the long boards. The total length should be 75" and the total width should be 35" when done. 

Insert the smaller frame inside the 2x10 frame. Line the bottoms of the boards up and screw together from the inside. 

4. Assemble your headboard. Pieces you will need:
2- 2x6 @ 42"
1- 2x4 @ 38"
4- 1x8 @ 38"

Start by fixing the 2x4 in between the 2x6s with screws through the pocket holes. Make sure that this piece is 9.25" above the bottom of the 2x6s so that the headboard will fit right overtop the end of the bed frame. Double check the width of the 2x10s but they should be 9.25". Next you just need to attach your 1x8s in between the 2x6s. We made the 1x8 flush with the back of the 2x6 to create a nice edge. you can do this by placing some scrap 1x8 underneath the boards while you screw them into the 2x6 with your pocket holes. Keep the edge of the boards together and make sure everything is square as you go.

5. Get that railing built by simply taking all the 2x2 and screwing it together in a rectangular shape with some support in the middle. We used 2" lag bolts to hold these pieces together because we thought it would look neat. If you choose to do the same you will just need to pre drill the holes for the lag bolts so that the wood doesn't split. It is a good idea to pre drill your holes any time you need to use a screw but more important when the screw or bolt is thick!

6. Use the 9 1x3s for slats to support the mattress. space them out evenly and screw them into the small inner frame that we built on the bed frame. Pre drill holes for the screws or you will almost certainly have some problems with the wood splitting.

7. Give everything a nice sand with 120grit sandpaper before you do the final assembly. You can do an additional sand at 180grit and/or 220grit if you would like a smoother finish.

8. Staining time! We love using gel stains because they are very forgiving and they allow you to get a nice deep colour with just one coat. They also penetrate well and protect the wood. Brush on the stain and use a rag to wipe all the extra off. You shouldn't be able to see any streaks once you have wiped the extra stain off. It will probably seem like you are wiping most of it off. 

We always recommend sampling the stain on a scrap piece of wood before staining everything!

9. Brush on a low sheen clear polyurethane for some protection and you are almost done!

10. Set everything up where ever the bed is going to be used. Screw the headboard to the bed frame or wall. There is a gap between the 2x4s on the edge of the bed frame and that is a good spot to get a couple screws in the headboard. screw the railing on from the inside of the frame. Do not screw the railing into the headboard because you may want to use the bed without the railing some day!

We did tweak a couple things in the design of the headboard and we would encourage you to take these plans and make a change here or there to make it work better for you. 

Here is the beautiful bed:

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Let us know what you like and let us know if there's something you would do differently. We are excited to hear about and see the beds that you make with this tutorial. Please share!